![]() In that letter Packard referred to the above letter and stated in part: “It will be well for you to read this letter again because the situation has become even more serious. However, a further letter was sent to the dealers some 16 months later dated Jadvising that the previous modification needed to be replaced with a more drastic change where the carburettor float bowl needed to be fitted with a vent connected to the intake manifold. Some quotations from that letter are interesting: “The combination of high operating temperature together with blended fuel including very volatile fractions has in some cases caused trouble through the boiling of fuel in the vacuum tank, the carburettor and the line connecting these two units ……” A minor modification was suggested in the letter. The first was written Maheaded “ Boiling Gasoline”. I have copies of letters written by the Packard Motor Car Company to its dealers regarding the problem. I have restored three and driven them all extensively over the last 30+ years and they have all vapor locked under the same conditions. In winter my cars will run perfectly on any fuel including 10% ethanol and, incidentally they run fine on 10-15% kerosene and I suspect would run fine on 100% kerosene once hot. Adding kerosene does not change that but even though the theory may be unclear it has on many occasions been the only way I could keep running.Īgain I do not dispute the theory but I have found that octane rating makes no difference but 10% ethanol certainly does and must be avoided in hot weather. ![]() I have been on tour climbing and had to keep wetting the carburettor every 100 feet or so- not fun when there is no overtaking lane and traffic following.įuel is made up of many fractions with varying boiling points and the lowest boiling point fractions boil at very low temperature. But on a hot day when in stop start traffic or on a long climb none of the above are sufficient and a wet rag around the carburettor is needed but that is very temporary. I have relocated the fuel line away from the exhaust system, fitted heat shielding, fitted a bypass electric pump removed the engine trays to allow more cool air around the engine, raised the leading edge of the hood to allow more air flow into the engine bay. The problem with Kerosene is you need to dilute the fuel with at least 10 -15% for it to be effective and if all of the conditions are against you nothing works and I have tried everything. Others have reported improvements with Diesel fuel but when I tried Diesel, it made no difference. In over forty-five years using Series Landrovers with this engine (including years in the Simpson Desert), and with 42C forecast here tomorrow, I have never had vapor lock problems except when an actual fault (such as suggested above) has later been found.In answer to your question about additives I have found adding kerosene reduces vapor lock, I haven’t tried Marvel Mystery oil as it is not available here in Australia. Just be thankful you're not trying to handle the TopEnd heat and humidity as well!Ħ9 2A 88" pet4 (in diguise), 68 2B FC pet6 (resting quietly), plus others. Good luck, and believe me, you're not alone in this. They have in-tank fuel pumps because they use fuel injection. Why else do all new cars have their fuel pumps inside the tank? It makes the old Landies look badly designed, but it worked just fine all those years ago, when they were new and petrol had some substance to it. I'm a firm believer that the problem is fully to do with the fuel they sell us now. ![]() This should fix the problem regardless of the cause! Still get some vaporising issues, but only when hot-starting and it passes relatively quickly. I added an electric fuel pump to my 2A, back near the tank.
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